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Alloy or steel adapters?

What does PCD stand for? Which wheels fit what? Why you'd need spacers & how they alter your offset (ET).

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Alloy or steel adapters?

Postby TSW Venom » 06 Mar 2007 14:31

I've heard it's better to run alloy adapters instead of steel. is that true? do steel items rust or what? i know they're heavier but...
Last edited by TSW Venom on 05 Mar 2008 18:08, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Alloy or steel adapters?

Postby Oxford Edition » 06 Mar 2007 14:34

TSW Venom wrote:I've heard it's better to run alloy adapters instead of steel. is that true? do steel items rust or what? i know they're heavier but...


What were you going to tell me about today dude??? 114 or??
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Re: Alloy or steel adapters?

Postby Chandler » 06 Mar 2007 17:36

TSW Venom wrote:I've heard it's better to run alloy adapters instead of steel. is that true? do steel items rust or what? i know they're heavier but...


Well, alloy wheel spacers usually have a decent weight advantage compared to wheel-spacers made from steel. So there's an unsprung weight advantage with alloy spacers. Quality stainless steel spacers shouldn't rust TBH. As a rule the premium TUV approved spacer kits are made from alloy - Eibach, H&R etc.
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Postby VicToR7 » 28 Mar 2007 11:32

get some polyurethane one's like Gemballa do!!! 8)
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Postby vfunk » 28 Mar 2007 14:01

We Will only use H&R's which are alloy but run a steel thread insert to avoid thread damage.You get the best of both worlds then :lol:
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Postby Stanton » 28 Mar 2007 20:17

chanldeyboy is correct.

u want the least unspring weight possible - theoretically cause of handling/breaking..... practialy to limit wheel wobble.

steel inserts are rollys royce...but u wont generally need them unless ure lazy and dont ever check them for tightness....

they do come loose.

downside with steel inserts in alloy is they will expand due to heat at different rates (the insert and the spacer) so they can tear out at the very very worst 'omg ed of the world' scenario..... tho in reality the worst tht will happen is they may come loose and wobble a little

if you want to be reli safe, convert your car from bolts to studs like we have done at work on the vw cup car......

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just get long ones and slot thru the spacer and wheel and clamp down.

or smallerones and nuts for the adaptor to wheel and normal bolts into the adaptor....

hope i made sense :D
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Postby Mk1dubzter » 02 Apr 2007 10:46

Stanton

thats a bloody good idea to swap..but most people cant be bothered
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Postby Stanton » 02 Apr 2007 11:04

ye vin its a hassle takin the hub off if you done have access to tools to make ure life easy... well worthwhile tho!

ill be doing it to mine soon :D
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Postby TwinScrew20v » 06 Apr 2007 00:02

An option here...If youre having them made...Is a 700 series aluminum. UIll see if I can dig up the spec sheets from some of the mills but they are generally harder (and a little stronger) than the typical 2024 and 6061 aluminum used for car parts. They also tend to be a little heavier BUT they are more brittle. This doesnt really pose a concer for an adapter that is compressed in this case like it would on say aircraft parts or other auto uses. Ive done a couple sets out of this already with some good luck. Not as heavy as steel, almost as strong as stainless (weaker than carbon steel that rusts) and quite a bit stronger than your typical aluminums.
I aint got nuttin for yas here...
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Re: Alloy or steel adapters?

Postby vr6swap » 26 Nov 2009 17:00

Aluminum for cars, steel billet for truck applications (like semi truck wheels on duallies :idea: )
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