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Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Powder coating, polishing, chroming. How and where to refurb your rims, cleaning tips. Aluminium, steels, magnesium, carbon fibre, trims.

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Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby Windsor » 03 Jan 2009 08:08

This is what happens when I am on break from school bored, and taking some time to work on my wheels. I'll update this DIY as I make progress. Sources for some information can be found at the bottom of the DIY

First what is the difference between RS's and RM's you ask?

The BBS RM is a cast 2-piece wheel. The two pieces consist of the outer "lip" and "rim (barrel and center)." They are 15" in diameter and have 30 bolts that thread into the barrel. The center cap is plastic and snaps in. These wheels were available on the '91-92 16v GTIs.

The BBS RS is a forged 3-piece wheel that consists of an outer "lip" , "center" and "barrel". The center cap is aluminum and threaded, attaches by threading into the center section of the wheel. These also weigh in at only 15 pounds each. The bolts on a BBS RS are slightly longer and go through the lip, center, and barrel then are fastened with a nut. The amount of bolts per wheel is dependent on the diameter of the wheel, since we will be working with a 16" diameter wheel we will have 34 bolts and nuts per wheel.

Now on to rebuilding

1.Locate and purchase your wheels,Thanks Katya for giving me a reliable affordable website to place my order with.
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2.Oh **** check it out they're here already. These are 16x7 ET 33 BBS RS.
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3.To begin separating the wheels, you will need the following.
-3/8 drive socket wrench
-8mm 12 pt. socket.
-small extension
-10mm wrench
-rubber mallet
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Begin removing the 34 bolts per wheel, the front face of the wheel has the 8mm bolts on them, and on the inside of the barrel you will locate the 10mm 12pt nuts to secure your wrench and prevent rotating.
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Some of the sealant gets onto the shaft of the bolts, and makes for a hard separation, I would recommend breaking the sealant free by rotating the 8mm bolts before trying to remove them.
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3.Now on to splitting the wheels, now i have looked at numerous BBS rebuild threads, and they all told me the same thing, scrape off the visible sealant with a putty knife and then tap the wheel to separate the pieces... they never separate.

The above mentioned method sucks, here is what I did.

-Preheat your oven to 350 degrees
-Remove center cap
-Throw the entire wheel in and set your timer to 5 minutes.
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Now PLEASE DON'T BE AN IDIOT. Use oven mits the wheel is warm.

4.Marking the wheel to show where they were originally set wouldn't be a bad idea right now.

5.Now to remove the outer lip you do this by tapping the wheel at the bottom most point of the lip as seen in the picture below. It should pop off with a few light taps.
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5.Next to remove the center tap the back of the center that would mount flush to the hub, I would tap it next to the mounting surface as to not damage the flat surface as seen in the below picture.
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Check it out you have them all apart!
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6.Now remove all the left over sealant
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7.Now that you have all of your wheels disassembled and clean you have to decide what it is exactly that you want to do.

In my case i planned on cleaning up 2 of the original (1") lips and purchasing 2 wider (2") lips.

8.So my next step was going to be re-polishing 2 of my (1") lips.
You will need:
-aircraft stripper
-sand paper
-wd-40
-never dull
-mothers metal polish
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9.Spray down the lips to be polished with some aircraft stripper.
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This may take a few coats to remove all the clear, BBS did a great job protecting their wheels.

10.Now on to the sanding!
In my case I started with 400 grit since my lips were in pretty good shape to begin with and had no curbage. If your wheels have been crubbed you will need to have them repaired.

You can follow the polishing guide found here: (Peteys Polishing (Ghetto 8v))
[url="http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333"]http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333"]http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333"]http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333[/url]

Here is a before picture of the lip
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and a finished picture
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9.Follow the same procedure when polishing the hex caps here is how to remove the hex from the center cap, (The BBS logo cap just snaps in place. so just unclip it and push to remove.)
-Remove the snap ring on the back of the center cap as seen in the below picture.
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Then the center caps will separate.
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Heres a shot after the polishing on the hex caps.
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10.Oh look what just came in from tunershop! My lips!
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Thanks for the free euro plate guys.
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Test fit of the new lips.
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11.Either clean or send out your centers for paint or powdercoat, I chose Powder Pro in new bedford, MA and brought a windsor gas cap with me, so he could match the color.
(pics on return)
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12.Bolts came In! Test fit!
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13.Now while your waiting on your centers to come back from powder or paint, You can use this time to clean the barrels.
I used
-Red Brake Cleaner
-Scuff Pad
-Elbow Grease

Here is a shot of one all clean.
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14.Now on to resealing the wheels

14 a. Clean the mating surfaces with laquer thinner and let dry.
14 b. Bolt the two shells together "DRY" and torque to spec. using a small drop of blue loctite per bolt
I prefer the blue loctite gel because it doesn't drip all over your pretty wheels (one tube of the gel does the trick for all 4 wheels)
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Also, to protect the head of your new shiny bolts, I recommend putting some saran wrap around the head of the bolts before putting the socket on it.


here are the torque specs
BBS RM bolt torque is 12-15 lb/ft
BBS RS bolt torque is 22-25 lb/ft
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14 c. Lay thin bead of silicone in the crack between the mating surfaces and smooth. Let it dry overnight.
14 d. Re-apply a bead over the first and smooth out to about a 1.0" bead width and smooth.
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If you follow this procedure your wheels will never leak. The reason you don't want silicone between the halves is because all silicone shrinks as it cures. As is shrinks the pressure between the shells changes and your torque changes. BBS use a different system. I wouldn't worry about how the silicone looks. Once you put a tire on you cant see it anyway. The last thing you want is to be driving down the road and get a flat because you didn't use enough sealant. Kodiak suggests to all of their customers that they recheck the torque after you run the wheels for the first time. Just make a few turns each way and quickly recheck (just check don't tighten more).

One recommended product for sealing wheel halves is called Toyota Seal 102 also known as FIPG or as it sounds "Fipige." It is only available at the dealer, 3 oz. cost near 15 dollars (10.00 if louie is nice to you), no silicone in it, I believe, but it will seal almost unsealable things.
Thanks Louie!
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Generally, and good quality RTV silicone sealant will work perfectly, though. Dow Corning 832 Multi Surface Adhesive Sealant was also recommended. Kinesis Motorsports also recommends a sealant called, Shin-Etsu Silicone (1 Component RTV). This is available from Kinesis Motorsports directly.

New BBS Caps
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Yay! all done
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Sources:
-BBS thread vwvortex http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1022742
-Rebuild thread found here http://www.the-polisher.com/id6.html
Last edited by Windsor on 05 Jan 2009 05:17, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby PLS-Marf » 04 Jan 2009 19:40

Nice DIY and refurb dude! Keep it updated :wink:
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Postby Windsor » 05 Jan 2009 05:18

update all done!
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby SR20DETDatsun510 » 13 Nov 2009 05:18

In Regards to:

13.Now while your waiting on your centers to come back from powder or paint, You can use this time to clean the barrels.
I used
-Red Brake Cleaner
-Scuff Pad
-Elbow Grease

Here is a shot of one all clean.
Image

I have some 3 piece Racing Hart Type C's.
I want to clean the inside of my Barrels without taking them apart.
I do not want to harm the finish of the lips or face.
The inside of the barrels appear to be painted or powder coated like yours do.
Will these cleaning products be safe to use?
If not, What could I use to make them shine?
Thanks.
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby gtigotnicewheels » 26 Jan 2010 00:21

very nice DIY!!!
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby M3_GT » 01 Feb 2010 18:16

Great wheels and nice write up mate. 8)
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby *96tegls* » 01 Feb 2010 20:38

Nice DIY bro !
i plan on using the steps you posted on my 16' bbs rs

i am a noob to the bbs wheel and i have a couple questions ?

which surface is the mating surface ?
and how do i measure torque ?
and what end of the bolts did you say we should cover to protest when we are screwing them in ?
and what about the valve stem?
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby JohnMartin » 14 Apr 2010 04:15

Here's another great resource you can use:
http://bbsrsdiy.blogspot.com/
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby spooky24v » 14 Jun 2010 02:41

good diy :cheers:
~7~7~7~
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby aloooha » 04 Jan 2011 03:04

does rbmotorsports still sell bbs rs parts?? I been looking for bbs rs websites for the longest and by far ebay is the only one.. how long did it take for your rims to come in?
Aloha from Honolulu, Hawaii.
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby Beware » 06 Sep 2011 03:45

Sorry for the old thread revive, but I just wanted to say this thread helped me in a huge way with my first split and rebuild of RS's, so thanks!! :worship: I'll be doing another set of 3 piece wheels in a few months as I enjoyed doing the BBS so much....painful and tedious disassembly and reassembly, but fun none-the-less!
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby BrianFlockaPenn » 26 Jan 2012 02:18

I'm getting bolts copper plated and I want to do the hex nut copper plated too but I'm scared to try to remove the plastic threads if it's sealed with a strong adhesive. any advice? never mind i got a screwdriver and popped them off.
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby Just_Tim_C » 11 Feb 2012 06:42

Ok so step 14c now on BBS RM is it bad if you dont do that step since its 2piece wheel or do i need to go back and redo it again since i looked that part over by mistake??? please let me know asap
but besides my mistake your info was very very helpful thank you soooo much
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby arinb12 » 10 Mar 2015 22:24

Pics are gone!! Anyone have this saved..
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Re: Rebuilding your BBS RS/RM's

Postby zackruncie » 08 Jun 2016 21:56

this guide was too handy to have tbh
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